Fluke 117 vs 115: Which Multimeter Fits Your Work

The Fluke 117 and Fluke 115 measure the same things with the same accuracy: both are 6,000-count true-rms meters rated CAT III 600 V, and Fluke publishes one shared accuracy table for them. The difference is three electrician features on the 117: built-in non-contact voltage detection (VoltAlert), an Auto-V setting that picks AC or DC on its own, and a low-impedance (LoZ) voltage mode that ignores ghost voltage. Pick the 117 if you work on building wiring. Pick the 115 if you mostly work on electronics, appliances or field service, where those extras add little and the low-impedance mode can even load a sensitive circuit.

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How we compared them

We did not run the meters side by side. This comparison is built from Fluke’s 114/115/117 user manual (the same document covers all three), Fluke’s Fluke 117 product page and FAQ, and the Amazon listings for both meters, checked on October 21, 2026. Where a spec applies to both models, the manual says so; where it applies to one, the manual labels it by model number, and that labeling is what the table below is based on.

Fluke 117 vs 115 at a glance

Everything in the top half of that table is identical. Stepping up to the 117 does not buy a more accurate meter; it buys two safety and speed features aimed at people who open electrical panels and outlet boxes.

The three things the 117 adds

1. Auto-V LoZ: auto AC/DC with a low input impedance

On the 117’s AUTO-V LoZ dial position, the meter decides whether the voltage is AC or DC and drops its input impedance to roughly 3 kΩ. Normal voltage modes on both meters run above 5 MΩ (AC) or 10 MΩ (DC). The low impedance drains off ghost voltage, the phantom reading you get on a disconnected wire that runs next to a live one in the same conduit. For an electrician deciding whether a conductor is really dead, that matters.

For electronics work it cuts the other way. Fluke’s own manual warns not to use Auto Volts on circuits that could be damaged by its low input impedance. A 3 kΩ load across a sensor output, a voltage divider or a microcontroller pin pulls current and changes the reading, or worse. On the 115 that mode doesn’t exist, so you can’t select it by accident.

2. VoltAlert non-contact voltage detection

The 117 has a sensor in the top of the case. Hold it near an outlet or cord and it beeps and lights a red LED when AC voltage is present. It has a Lo setting for flush outlets and power strips and a Hi setting for recessed connectors, and the manual says it works on bare wire down to 24 V on Hi. The manual also says plainly that no indication does not mean no voltage, and that it won’t work with shielded wire. Treat it as a quick first check, then confirm with the probes.

3. One fewer tool in the pouch

Because VoltAlert is built in, an electrician can leave a separate pen-style voltage tester at home. That convenience is most of the 117’s appeal. If you already carry a non-contact tester, or you never work on mains wiring, the 115 gives up nothing you would use.

What the 115 does that people assume it doesn’t

A common misreading is that the 115 has no low-impedance mode at all. It does have one, but only for capacitance: hold the RANGE button while switching the meter on and it measures capacitance in LoZ mode, which helps on cables carrying ghost voltage. The manual specifies this mode at ±10% + 2 typical, so it’s for rough checks. What the 115 lacks is LoZ voltage measurement.

The 115 also has the full current section (10 A continuous, 20 A for 30 seconds with a 10-minute rest), diode test, frequency counting and MIN/MAX/AVG recording, which beeps on each new high or low. The 114, the model below both, drops current, diode test and capacitance entirely, so check that you are not comparing against the 114 by mistake.

Fluke 115: the better fit for electronics and field service

Who it’s for: hobbyists and technicians working on boards, power supplies, appliances, HVAC controls and automotive low-voltage circuits who want a durable meter with current and capacitance.

Who should skip it: electricians who check outlets and breakers all day and want non-contact detection in the same tool.

• Same 6,000-count true-rms core and accuracy as the 117 per Fluke’s shared spec table.
• No Auto-V LoZ position, so you can’t accidentally load a sensitive circuit with ~3 kΩ.
• Measures AC and DC current to 10 A, capacitance to 9,999 µF and frequency to 50 kHz.
• Amazon reviewers frequently mention accuracy, build quality and the MIN/MAX function (4.8/5 from 3,000+ ratings, Oct 2026).

Cons:

• No milliamp or microamp range: the finest current resolution is 1 mA, too coarse for measuring a microcontroller’s sleep current.
• No non-contact voltage detection.
• Amazon’s review summary notes display contrast can drop at some viewing angles.

Check price of the Fluke 115 on Amazon

Fluke 117: the electrician’s version

Who it’s for: residential and commercial electricians, maintenance staff and anyone who regularly verifies whether building wiring is live.

Who should skip it: electronics hobbyists, and anyone who already carries a separate non-contact tester.

• VoltAlert non-contact detection with Lo and Hi sensitivity, built into the top of the meter.
• Auto-V LoZ picks AC or DC automatically and suppresses ghost voltage on de-energized conductors.
• Everything the 115 measures: current to 10 A, capacitance, frequency, diode test, MIN/MAX/AVG.
• Fluke markets it specifically for commercial buildings, hospitals and schools; it ships with silicone test leads and a holster per Fluke’s product page.

Cons:

• Costs more than the 115 for features that only help on mains wiring (check current prices; the gap moves).
• Auto-V LoZ can load or damage sensitive electronics if used on the wrong circuit, as Fluke’s manual warns.
• Same 1 mA current resolution as the 115, so no help for low-current electronics work.

Check price of the Fluke 117 on Amazon

Which one should you buy?

Work through these in order and stop at the first one that applies.

• You open outlet boxes, panels or light fixtures for work: get the 117. Ghost-voltage rejection and VoltAlert exist for exactly this job.
• You need to measure milliamps or microamps (battery-powered sensors, Arduino sleep current): neither meter fits. Both stop at 1 mA resolution. Look for a meter with a dedicated mA/µA input instead.
• You mostly work on electronics, appliances or vehicles: get the 115. You lose nothing you would use, and the risky low-impedance voltage mode isn’t on the dial.
• You’re choosing between a used 117 and a new 115 at a similar price: the measurement core is the same, so decide on the features above, then check the used meter’s leads and fuse. The manual includes a fuse test and specifies an 11 A, 1,000 V fast fuse (Fluke PN 803293).

If you’re kitting out an electronics bench, the meter is one piece; see our guide to the best soldering iron for electronics and our list of essential tools for electronic repair.

Using either meter on low-voltage projects

Both meters read DC voltage with 1 mV resolution on the 6 V range, which is plenty for checking a 3.3 V or 5 V rail, a sensor output or a battery. If you’re building a project that reads voltages with a microcontroller, a multimeter is the reference you calibrate against; our Arduino voltage sensor tutorial shows where that check fits. For battery-life work, such as the techniques in our Arduino sleep mode guide, the 1 mA floor on both Flukes means you’ll see “0.000 A” long before the board reaches its real sleep current.

Two habits from the manual apply to both meters: connect the COM lead first and remove it last, and disconnect power and discharge capacitors before measuring resistance, continuity, diodes or capacitance. Also note the battery saver: both meters blank the display after 20 minutes without input, which you can disable at power-up when logging with MIN/MAX (MIN/MAX mode disables sleep on its own).

FAQ

Is the Fluke 117 more accurate than the 115?

No. Fluke’s manual gives one accuracy table for the 114, 115 and 117. DC volts, for example, is ±(0.5% + 2 counts) on all of them. The only accuracy difference is that the 117 has the Auto-V LoZ function, which has its own looser spec (±(2.0% + 3) from 45 to 500 Hz).

Does the Fluke 115 have LoZ?

Only for capacitance, enabled by holding RANGE at power-up. It has no low-impedance voltage mode; that is a 114 and 117 feature.

Can the Fluke 117 or 115 measure milliamps?

Both have a single 10 A current input with 0.001 A (1 mA) resolution. Fluke confirms the 117’s maximum resolution is 1 milliamp. Neither has a separate mA or µA jack.

What battery do they use, and how long does it last?

A single 9 V alkaline battery, rated at about 400 hours typical without the backlight. The backlight turns itself off after 40 seconds unless you disable that at power-up.

Is the Fluke 116 the same meter?

The 116 belongs to the same family and shares Fluke’s calibration documentation with the 114, 115 and 117, but it is aimed at HVAC work. This comparison covers the 115 and 117 only; check Fluke’s product page for the 116’s spec list.

Sources

• Fluke 114, 115 and 117 True-rms Multimeters Users Manual (PN 2572573, Rev. 1): fluke-direct.com (all specs, features by model, safety notes, fuse, battery), checked 2026-10-21
• Fluke 117 product page and FAQ: fluke.com (115 vs 117 differences, 1 mA resolution, included accessories, target applications), checked 2026-10-21
• Amazon listing, Fluke 117 (B000O3LUEI): rating 4.8/5 from 5,230 ratings, checked 2026-10-21
• Amazon listing, Fluke 115 (B000OCFFMW): rating 4.8/5 from 3K ratings and customer review summary, checked 2026-10-21
• Owner notes / photos: none